The Waveman's Online Studio and Song Writing for Everyone

CHAPTER I

All that glitters is not gold.
The boatyard was full of yachts, sportfishing boats and sailing vessels getting a fresh coat of paint or some new rigging. I stood in the shade of an enormous coconut palm tree waiting for my crew to arrive, experiencing a brief moment of deja vu streaming through my mind, reminiscent of the many hours I had personally spent rebuilding my own sail boat. Crews hustled, sanding, scraping and painting, anxious to get their boats back to the dock where they would float peacefully in the lee of the harbor jetty. I suppose I neglected to mention I was toting my guitars, an old Gibson SG made in 1971, a Gibson S-1 that was given to me by one of the band members in a popular calypso band down in Belize, and an old Yamaha acoustic, which for some reason, like all Yahamas' I've ever played, had a warped neck that just couldn't be adjusted enough to make the strings close to the neck. There you have it...the connection...music and boating. back to the story...

Jake and Tanya met me in Mississippi for the first time just outside the entrance to the boat yard. They were going to be my crew onboard the Witch Doctor. We walked slowly through the maze of fiberglass and wooden icons, nested comfortably on blocks and wooden frames, looking for the 51' Hatteras which would be our home for the next month. The vessel had been in the yard for a few weeks undergoing repairs. Obviously the owner wasn't as familiar with the intercoastal waterways as he thought, especially while he was tanked up on bourbon. Running aground wasn't an unusual event and repairing the hull, props, and shafts was a normal out of the pocket expense for him. That's where it all began. Trouble...that is. We walked up to the stern of the "Witch Doctor" and saw the mechanic onboard.
"Well how's she coming?" I stepped up the makeshift wooden ladder to get a better look.
"Not too much more to do a little more work on the generator and everything in the engine room will be finished. I'm still waiting on a shaft to be straightened and the props were just delivered today, so it looks like we'll be in business by tomorrow evening. Are you ready to launch her?"
"Oh yes, we were counting on a sea trial by Thursday and it looks like your just about ready." It's always a good idea to check the boat out at sea, staying close to harbor just in case unforeseen problems occur, and believe me they usually do the first time out. Before embarking on a journey 861 miles across open Gulf waters, this procedure is mandatory for a prudent sailor. You wouldn't want to break down 300 miles from land. We had time to inspect all the gear and safety equipment and get the ship stores for the trip to Central America. It was getting late and the crew headed for the local pub for a drink and some dinner. I stayed with the boat a while longer, sat back on the deck in the fighting chair with my acoustic guitar playing a Jimi Buffet song and watched the sunset.

The next morning everyone began organizing and cleaning below decks so the trip would be comfortable. All the groceries were stowed and fishing tackle was set for the tournament that would begin about four days after our arrival in Belize. The rods were checked and set in their holders in the main saloon and the reels were cleaned and polished, ready to fight and land the toughest blue marlin. The crew had their own quarters and settled in while I unpacked my bag, found the charts and tidied the stateroom.
"Captain, have you got all the charts necessary to navigate the crossing and the Belizian waters?"
"Looks like it. I'm going through them now. You know, once we enter the reef at Ambergris Caye we'll need to be aware of shoals, especially an area called Rocky Point. Because the water is so clear the depth can be deceiving. Fortunately for us I spent an entire year sailing up and down the coast of Belize anywhere I could get my little boat. I took a great deal of time to familiarize myself with the waters there while I was scuba diving and sailing and I talked to the local fishermen, too."
"That's cool cap. I'm happy you have that experience under your belt. I can rest a little easier knowing you spent all that time there exploring."
Soon the work was finished and the boat and crew were ready. The following day she was launched.

Drop us a Line

Belize Waters Pic

A view of Belize City and Surrounding Waters

Respect the sea or she might swallow you up

At 0500 hrs. the crew awoke, cooked breakfast and we cranked up the engines for the first time. The dock lines were removed from the pilings and I backed the "Witch Doctor" slowly out of her slip and turned toward the jetties. The twin diesels purred as the early morning sea fog rose across the bow. Lights flickered in the background through the fog and the sounds of bells and horns from the nearby buoys rang softly. On the eastern horizon the soft glow of the morning sun began to feather it's pastel colors onto the low stratus clouds. I was apprehensive about the trip, knowing that Jake and Tanya had little experience at sea. Everything was working well and I set a course for a twenty mile run to an offshore oil platform. The trip would allow us to test the navigation equipment and all the other systems onboard.

"How bout some coffee cap?" Jake was below standing by the galley stove.
"Sure thing Jake, Thanks."
I pushed the throttles forward and brought the boat up to cruising speed. As we passed the sea buoy, the end of the jetties faded out of view and my mind was focused on the Witch Doctor.
"I like the sound of those engines." I set the autopilot and went up on the foredeck to inspect the life raft and the lanyards that hold it in place on the deck. Everything was in order there so I walked toward the stern checking the rails, running lights and outriggers making a mental note of anything that needed attention. Stepping back onto the aft deck I asked Tanya to start the generator and check the output voltage.
"Everything looks good here cap. We've got 124 volts on the meter." Tanya made her way to the galley to get some more coffee.

The seas were calm and there was barely a breeze as we made the halfway mark to the rig. Just off the starboard bow baitfish jumped and raced away from an unseen predator. A flying fish took to the air and then skimmed the surface of the almost mirror like sea. That's when we decided to slow down and put out some fishing lines. Early in the morning was a good time to fish offshore and this was a great opportunity to get everyone in tune for the tournament. The excitement of hooking a trophy fish got me pumped and that's when I saw it.
" Just ahead there's a weed line, so let's run along side and see what we can bring up."
Not a minute went by and..."Whoa! listen to that reel sing!"
Line was peeling off the Penn 000 so quickly. The hook was set so the only thing to do now was back down to keep from loosing all the fishing line. I threw the throttles into reverse as Jake sat in the fighting chair and Tanya helped strap him in. He cranked up the slack as fast as possible.
"That's some fish. It hit like a sailfish. Must be 260 pounds if it's a pound."
Jake kept reeling, the fish would take some line and head for the bottom then Jake would take some back. This went on for almost thirty minutes before they got their first glimpse of the sailfish. The monster sail jumped what seemed 15 feet across the wake and headed back down. The two of them were screaming and I watched from the flying bridge. Jake was wearing him out well the fish was working Jake, too. Finally they were able to bring the tired sailfish along side and tag it. We released the fish and continued on our course toward the platform.

Returning from the rig there were no problems and we felt confident that the boat was ready for the crossing. The plan was to go back to the dock, fuel up and get a good night rest. In the morning we would set out for Isla Mujeres, Mexico, our first stop to refuel. What a cool tourist town for a stop over, three days in Isla would be perfect to shake off the salt and sea legs. Then on to Belize.

Just South of Belize on the Rio Dulce

Stands an old Spanish fort overlooking Lago Isabel

Make Sure You HaveTwo Birds

Well, as always, I would have to get myself into trouble with something I said. It's funny to me because a good friend once told me not too many years ago to keep my mouth shut and I would be working more than I wanted. Well I can play the hell outta the guitar. He was telling me that people in general, especially overstressed musicians and club owners or managers, don't want the truth about jack, and, to be a successful working musician in New Orleans you have to bite your tongue and keep your mouth shut. So as always... I ...speak my mind. As I said I was apprehensive about sailing with inexperienced deck hands all that distance and come to find out they were trying to patch up a very rocky marriage. There was no way I wanted to get involved in their personal affairs and they seemed to keep everything under control on the surface. So feeling like being out of control myself, considering all that was going on around me, I decided to tell the owner what an awful captain he was and almost got myself killed and thrown overboard during the process. This all took place when he decided to take a couple of his friends out for an afternoon gayla and he took over the helm on the backside of the Mississippi peninsula on a short cruise. I am totally sure now that he regularly ran the boat aground. Fortunately for me he wasn't responsible for hiring or firing. He was leasing the Hatteras to someone who hired me for my expertise in boating and navigation of tricky waters inside the reef down south.

Now it's time to get underway.

All fueled up, three poly fifty-five gallon drums on deck stinking of diesel fuel and the two tanks below, we motored into the gulf leaving the beautiful Mississippi port behind like a bad dream. I mean this boat was streaming toward a warm tropical paradise where the beer is cold and Corona or Superior or Modelo are the domestic beer and the party is on! I was anxious to arrive in Isla Mujeres knowing that all my friends were hanging on the beach and sailing, eating great seafood and drinking while listening to the local band in a popular restaurant /bar. Oh and let's not forget to mention Tarzan, or at least that's what everyone called him on the island. He had a really cool spot on the beach where he rented small sailing things like sailboards and paddleboats. Actually when I first met him he was the guy you regularly saw on the beach jogging backward through heavy sand and windsurfing about 48 hours a day. Then as time went on he decided to make something of his popularity and started his small business. He brought life and smiles to everyone and probably still does. Isla was and is an amazing place. It was a tropical paradise I actually called home for almost two years. If you haven't been to Isla, now would be a good time to go before it becomes too infested with tourists. You probably have been to Cancun being the "led by the nose" tourists you all are. Well just take the ferry across to the island and forget the tour and enjoy.

Calm Seas

The fall didn't bring any unusual storms or cold fronts for some reason and the first 36 hours out of port seemed effortless and uneventful. The Gulf was so calm that I had trouble sleeping the first night. The noise of the seas and the motion seem to calm me. On this trip, however, there was nothing more than the sweet sound of two perfectly tuned diesel caterpillars humming away under the deck and the occasional sound of a passing bird searching for food or trying to make landfall. We carried a tired sparrow for sometime before it decided to take flight once again and continue its trip in a southerly direction. Right in the middle of the Gulf of Mexico stands a buoy just flashing away at Mother Nature. You can use this buoy to confirm your position at sea. Many sailors use a compass or maybe a sextant, if they are skilled in celestial navigation. The buoy will confirm your position if there are any doubts in your calculations. In the past, dead reckoning was the only way to hold a course. Dead reckoning is a way to determine your position at sea using a compass and periodically checking the amount of current that effects the course you set and don't forget the drift due to forces of wind against the sails...Well that should help you a little. If you haven't a clue about any of these things you might consider getting the Blah Blah book of navigation and whatnot. We were fortunate to have satnav, loran C, and the compass, of course. I did bring my sextant and polished up on my celestial navigation for fun. This type of reckoning requires several books and an almanac to determine a position at sea, but it passes the time and keeps your math skills honed. It's pretty cool too because you use the stars or the planets to figure your little pinpoint of a spot on earth. Tayna and Jake shared the helm and responsibilities. I cooked my famous snapper in a bag and served it with rice and some veggies. After dinner we shut down one engine and changed the oil and then the other. The pain in the butt was transferring the fuel from the barrels to the tanks. Using a hand pump and lots of cranking, we took turns distributing the fuel to each tank and...ooops, just about 25 miles out from Isla Contoy, the first Mexican port, or really not a port but an island where the shark fishermen worked the waters for bull shark, we noticed that we were running short on fuel. The remaining fuel, only enough to get us to Contoy, would be gone before reaching Isla. I didn't calculate that much fuel usage. Fortunately I knew the fishermen so we decided to anchor in the lee of the island and rest. By daybreak a friend who had a fishing camp on Isla Contoy cruised by to say hello and we were able to get just enough fuel to go the last 19 miles to Isla Mujeres. Wow, what a trip. You can see the lighthouse from about 21 miles and it sure is a lovely sight when you've been cruising for a couple days. If I had sailed the same rumb line as I had in the past without motors, under sail alone, it would be even more welcome after 3-5 days at sea depending on the amount of wind. Carlos was more than helpful and very pleasant as always."Hola Carlos, Como estado...que onda?" Great guy to know. "Necesitamos un poco de diesel. Se puede triarmelo." Carlos went to the camp and brought us 20 gallons of fuel and some fresh fish and a few cold Superior cervezas. Cool Huh. I took the fish and cut it into pieces added lime and onion and celantro and tomato and we had ceviche for days. We hung out for a while with him and some of the shark hunters that worked the area and drank some beer. We talked about some interesting times we spent setting nets and returning later to pull up our catch of the day. It was time to get going so we thanked them for their help and got underway for the short haul to Isla Mujeres. It was time to get the boat to the dock and enjoy some of the evening on Isla Mujeres.

Chapter II

Can I take off my sea legs now?.
Well as one would suspect, the motion of the ocean does get to you after a long sail from coast to coast. We stumbled down the pier to the avenida, as if drunk, rubber legs and all, searching for some food in one of Isla Mujeres's great restaurants. This motion feeling passes after a few hours, by the way. Our trek brought us to an old favorite spot of mine called Gomars Restaurante. The old iron work surrounds the entire second floor balcony, which is covered with an ornate tile roof. It's very comfortable to sit right above one of the islands busiest streets. There aren't any vehicles on the island, well some mopeds, but mostly barefoot locals and tourists. Most all are shopping at the T-shirt or artisan shops and looking for a great buy. The barman came to the table and asked if we were interested in one of their island specials. I looked up at him and as our eyes met we both smiled and he said "Gierrmo, Regresso orita con algo especial!" We had worked together on the other end of the island bartending for the better part of a year and knew each other well. Oh, the translation is... William, I'll be back in a sec with something special for you. Even though my name isn't William it's the closest translation to my english name. My mates were gazing over the balcony at the confusion on the street, oblivious to anything that had transpired upstairs. The waiter brought "espescial" drinks from my friend and greeted us. As the night progressed we finally became comfortable with our surroundings, got our fill of tasty Mexican cuisine, and a buzz off the "especial" drinks, which were mostly rum and some fruit juices. The three of us wandered to the square where on a Friday night, the bands would play until 3am. Jake ran over to grab the basketball that was tipped off a hand and rolled toward the crowd. People listening and dancing to the salsa music didn't even notice. As I looked up I could see the clear star lit sky. The palm fronds were wavering almost as if the music was conducting the wind and controlling their tempo. The hoops were adjacent to the municipal building steps where the band set up and the basketball courts were always busy this time on the weekends. Everyone welcomed Jake with a whistle or some sort of appreciative holler as he dribbled the ball toward the court and decided to play. Americans were cool with the natives of Isla as long as they weren't messing with their women. Tanya, sometimes bumping me, just danced and moved to the music and didn't really say a word. She was enjoying herself. I motioned to her that I would be right back and slipped over to the sports bar around the corner to get another drink. The bar was full and lively and one of my favorite Bob Marley tunes was playing on the juke box. I noticed that an old friend was standing at the other end of the bar talking to his friends so I walked over and jumped into the conversation. They were an odd bunch who caused lots of trouble on the island and were very well known and came from affluent families. The first time I stayed in Isla Mujeres I had a bit of trouble with Jose. For some reason he thought I was trying to capture the attention of the fine ladies that visited Isla and he was right. I was alone living on board a fine sailboat and wanted the company of a fine woman. Unfortunately we had the same taste in women and that's where our problem began. He loved to flurt with the new comers and I did as well. After a short time we had crossed paths and almost came to fighting it out. He had some of his entourage follow me around the island from time to time and I was actually shot with a B-B gun in the back as I was entering the grocery store one night. I didn't see the person involved in the attack but I assumed he was a close friend of Jose. Well as thing go, we finally settled our differences and became friends and there he was, doing his chat thing at the end of the bar. We were speaking in Spanish and he was telling me about his new business. He decided to open a juice bar and offer fresh tropical fruit juices and milkshakes along with some of the fresh pastries that he ordered from the local bakery. He was doing very well and spent most of the day behind the counter serving tourists and locals and the place was right on the corner a block from the square. He stayed busy and was pleased that his idea was working and I'm sure that his papa was happy for him too. He invested in the venture. Well we drank and got stupid and I decided to go to one of my favorite spots on the island. I was definately on the prowl and as I made my way toward the boat I found a beautiful girl from Ireland that was with her girlfriend and was willing to take a chance and explore whatever with me. We walked her friend back to the hotel and made our way to the boat. I was certainly interested in showing her the yacht in hopes that it would impress her and I would have the possibility of getting laid. Well, sorry, but I was way horny at that time and the moon was full and the wind calm and seemingly all the parameters were just right for a very erotic night. We walked to the north end of the island where the Mayan Hotel towered just on the other side of a small wooden bridge that crossed an inlet. We walked to the far side of the hotel where there were several ponds and fish of all sorts along with sea turtles and sat and watched their activity for a short while. Our conversation was open and enjoyable and we talked about the US and the Irish coastline where her father and she lived. Well I had to move on this as we were very compatible and we went to the boat, jumped into the dingy, and paddled out to the small light house, which is a large piece of reef that rises out of the harbour about 3 feet above the tide water. I took the lanyard and wrapped it around a piece of the reef and we both jumped into the beautiful blue calm water and I decided to encourage the both of us to swim naked. That was all it took and after we held each other for a time and played around, laughing and talking about our random thoughts, we made love and it was extremely passionate and well just use your imagination; full moon, crystal clear blue water an extremely horny Irish girl and myself, feeling the same!. What can I say. After a couple of hours just doing whatever we could think of at the time, we finally got back in the dingy and paddled to the sailboat. She warned me that she had to leave in the morning and catch the ferry to Cancun where she would board her flight to New York and then return home. She also warned me as we arrived onboard the 41 foot Morgan sailing yacht that she wouldn't allow me to rest, sleep or anything other than satisfy her sexual needs and I remember the sun coming up as I was still coming up, if you get my drift. She was the sex machine. Oh and I was having the time of my life. I never expected this would happen, although I certainly was thinking about it. You know that all good things come to an end and this was over after 7AM when she put her clothes on and kissed me goodbye. I helped her off the boat onto the pier and she returned to the hotel and packed the rest of her stuff and she and her friend walked to the ferry landing. I had a cup of coffee and joined them to say good-bye and it was on to my next quest. Actually I was so exhausted that I just went back to the boat after they boarded the ferry and slept half the day away.

Someone knocking on the deck woke me about 4 O'Clock. I was still tired and slammed into the hatch. Sally laughed and I truely believe she didn't want to laugh at me, but I have to agree with her. I was just beat and didn't notice that I had closed the hatch to the main saloon. We were old friends and enjoyed hanging out together. I was feeling great and decided to wander around the island. Just when you expect the worst something happens to enlighten you. I was walking down the main drag and noticed a really beautiful young lady shopping. Not to sound like a freak, but, I followed her from one shop to the next. She was absolutley the finest woman I had seen in forever. So as luck would have it a storm blew in and I had to run back to the beach and check on the boat. When tings calmed down I was hungry and walked up to a restaraunt where I sat and had a drink and thought about what I was going to eat. When the drink arrived I looked over and noticed that the very same girl and a friend were sitting at the next table. Sally showed up and we sat and talked about whatever. She was telling me about a friend who worked with her and then I told her about my quest of the day. Sally was way cool and offered ideas that might help me to actually meet the girl. She asked me to invite the two for a drink and I did. When the waiter returned I asked him to bring the girls two "cucarachas", which are comprised of tequela, kalua, and soda and the idea is to slam the drink on the table then drink it down quickly. I offered to do the honors and then was invited to join them. Sally knew this would work and she was right. The night was beginning to look like another incredible night in paradise. We drank and ate together and then took a walk to the pavillion. Things went my way and the room mate decided to turn in early. We escorted her to the hotel where they were staying and then returned to the square to listen to the band. What a week! Deb was from Toronto and had just arrived on the island with her friend. They had a few days to hang out and play before returning to the mainland and flying back. So I had an idea that would most definately bring her pleasure. We went to the boat, untied the lines, sailed off with some other friends and headed south. The night air was cool and the breeze was perfect for a comfortable sail. Debbie was at home on the yacht and made her way down the companionway. She was eager to help and served everyone their drinks and beer. As we were sailing, one of my friends, Carlos, decided to throw the line over the stern and jumped in hanging on the rope. It was a perfect night for sailing and swimming. He held on and dragged behind, singing for at least 5 minutes before pulling himself back on deck. We decided to anchor and found a spot where there were no lights from shore glowing or interfering with our anchorage. I cranked up the music on the stereo and opened a cold Superior beer and then jumped into the clear blue water. Everyone followed and we were all laughing and singing along with the Jimi Buffet tunes. As the night progressed the rest of the mates became tired and we made our way back to the dock. Juan and Carlos and Bonita left the two of us alone. Debbie felt at home and was telling me that her father had a nice sailboat on the lake in Toronto. They kept the boat at Center Island where they would go on the weekends and sail. I was stoked that we were enjoying each other and decided to make a move on her. She apparently had the same in mind and we settled down on the deck cushions. Debbie was very passionate as my dream became reality.

Chapter III to follow soon.

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